Polissia is a large historical region of Ukraine, stretching from Volhynia to Sumy and Chernihiv Oblasts, from the northern borders to the border of Zhytomyr Oblast with Vinnytsia Oblast, and Rivne Oblast with Khmelnytsky Oblast. Its territory is boundless forests and burning swamps, in which it is very difficult to build large cities. Therefore, even in the middle of the last century, it remained aloof from industrialization and preserved numerous traditions of its ancestors. That is why Polissya embroidery is a very interesting topic. This is not just a decoration, it is the history and customs of our people. And today we are talking about them.

THE IMPORTANCE OF EMBROIDERY IN POLISSYA CULTURE

If in big cities already at the beginning of the 20th century, embroidery turned into a decorative item of clothing in which fashionable patterns were used, Polish embroidery retained its deep symbolic meaning. It reflects the worldview, traditions and unique aesthetics of this region. Since Polissia has a very diverse and complex landscape, it is dominated by natural motifs.

Embroidered ornaments on Polissa refer us to the beliefs of our ancestors. They embody the symbols of earth and water, forest and lake spirits, fertility, protection from evil forces, resistance to dangers and self-belief. Vyshyvanka Polissya also have a close connection with family traditions. These shirts are still used during matchmaking and wedding ceremonies, during church and family holidays. Vyshyvanka and towels in Polissia are passed down from generation to generation as family heirlooms. This helps to keep in touch with deep Ukrainian culture and to pass on true values ​​to the descendants.

COLOR PALETTE AND SYMBOLISM OF POLISSYA EMBROIDERY

Traditional Polissya embroidery patterns consist of the following colors:

  • red - symbolizes life, strength and beauty. It is most often found in Polish embroidery and towels. It is believed that its use helps to scare away evil forces and create ideal conditions for a happy family life;
  • black — serves as a symbol of the earth and connection with ancestors. Contrasting with red, it reminds us of the cyclical nature of life and that old generations always give way to new ones. The black color in Polissya's embroidery is very popular to this day;
  • green and blue - symbolize nature, forests, streams and the sky. Green means renewal, growth and enrichment, and blue means calmness, spiritual purity and peace of mind. These colors are much less common, and yet they are defining for the cultural features of Polissia.

Another nuance is the use of natural materials - hemp or linen cloth. They have a grayish, yellowish or brownish shade. Unlike bleached cotton fabric, this reduces the contrast and makes the embroidery a bit more subdued.

MAIN ELEMENTS OF POLISSYA EMBROIDERY

One of the differences of Polissya embroidery is the use of original symbols - pine trees, hops, periwinkles, terun, birches, grapes, viburnum, oak leaves, stars and waves. Such symbolism of the ornaments is dictated by the closeness to nature - dense forests, ringing streams and bright stars in the sky in the clearings on the lawns.

Of course, Polish embroidery cannot exist in isolation from Ukrainian culture, and that is why it also uses elements that are more familiar to our eyes - rhombuses, triangles, circles and other geometric elements. They are characterized by restrained lines and a small number of details — the patterns are simple, but symbolic.

If we look into the deep past, which came down to us in the form of drawings and illustrations in ancient books, we will see that more than 200 years ago, more clear artistic symbols were used in Polissya embroidery. First of all, these are birds that have always been embroidered in pairs - pigeons, storks, eagles, cuckoos and swallows.

You can also see flowers with different numbers of petals in Polissia's ancient embroidery. This is not an accident or a whim of the artist. Each number had its own meaning. For example, 4 is divinity and connection with higher forces, 5 is strength and patience, 6 is happiness and wealth, 7 is perfection and beauty, 8 is infinity of time.

MODERN TRENDS OF POLISSYA EMBROIDERY

Polissya's modern embroidery combines original visual elements and color scheme with new stylish shapes, combining authenticity with modern fashion. The following trends can be identified in its use:

  • Minimalism. History moves in a spiral, and everything returns to its beginning. So it is with Polissya embroidery — instead of the many colors that became fashionable at the beginning of the 20th century, they again use the classic combination of red and black. This makes shirts and dresses more discreet, allowing you to combine them with different wardrobe items.
  • Free styles and non-standard cuts. Today's embroidered shirts are not only shirts. These are dresses, sweatshirts and even jackets, which use unique motifs of Ukrainian culture. Embroidered shirts are also available in oversized styles. Embroidery on modern free silhouettes has a soft and at the same time expressive look, which makes these things more democratic.
  • New places for decoration. Polissia ornaments are now applied to cuffs, collars, shoulders or even pockets. This makes the embroidery brighter and at the same time closer to a modern person, allowing embroidery to be integrated even in business casual style.
  • Experiments with materials. Natural linen fabric is still considered a classic. Although today it gives way to alternatives - silk, knitwear and even denim. This adds textural variety and makes embroidered clothes more comfortable for different seasons.
  • Eco-embroidery and handwork. One of the trends is the renewed interest not only in symbols, but also in traditional technologies. Hand embroidery is included in the price today - such clothes are much more expensive, but, like a century ago, they become a real family heirloom.

PRESERVING THE TRADITIONS OF POLISSYA EMBROIDERY AND EMBROIDERED WOMEN

The unique motifs of Polissya embroidery are back in fashion. Today they can be seen not only in the villages of the northern and northwestern regions, but also in large cities. There are more and more Ukrainian manufacturers who offer original products - from shirts to jackets and jackets, from dresses to hoodies and pants. They restore both the authentic look of clothes and traditional technologies — including hand embroidery and the use of natural materials.

Vyshyvanka Polissya becomes the subject of folklore festivals and expositions. It is demonstrated on high fashion catwalks - both in Kyiv and Lviv, and in London, Paris and New York. The revival of interest in Ukrainian culture allows us to preserve the historical value of red and black geometric patterns with a deep symbolic meaning.